Adhesives and Epoxies Q&A
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We currently employ a solvent process using cyclohexanone to bond PVC tubing with an ABS molded hub. We are going to be switching from ABS to Pebax (thermoplastic elastomer). However, because we believe that there are issues with the cyclohexanone creating the bond with the Pebax that we desire, I’m looking for some information regarding our process. Is it appropriate to continue to solvent bond (maybe with a different solvent) or to switch to a new process (UV adhesive, for example)?Solvent bonding typically works with amorphous thermoplastics such as PVC, ABS, PC, PMMA, and PS. Pebax belongs to the family of thermoplastic elastomers and generally offers good resistance to solvents. Depending on its grade and softness, it may swell in certain solvents but will not behave like amorphous thermoplastics do. If you replace the ABS with Pebax, you need to switch to a new bonding process. UV-light curable adhesives are a good option, and I would recommend that you try Dymax medical-grade adhesives 204-CTH-F and 209-CTH. They both adhere well to PVC, Pebax, and several other commonly used plastics.
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I need to bond a plastic cap to an alloy or some type of metal shaft. The application is similar to the bottom joystick of a playstation controller, where you have a plastic cap that bonds to the resistive joystick alloy. Do you have any ideas about what adhesive might work best?Without knowing what the plastic is, its size, and what type of environment the application will be exposed to, it is difficult to make an accurate recommendation. However, based on what you have provided, we would recommend looking at a cyanoacrylate, or instant adhesive.
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I would like to know the best adhesive to use in our cannula and metal wire bonding processes. The details are as follows: For bonding the stainless cannula to polycarbonate, we need a wicking-grade adhesive with black-light confirmation possible. For bonding stainless wire to ABS/polycarbonate, we need a thicker adhesive for potting a wire into a slot in the plastic part. The wire is 0.010 to 0.021 in. in diameter and fits into a 0.025-in. slot. Finally, for bonding nitinol wire to ABS/polycarbonate, we need a thicker adhesive for potting a wire into a slot in the plastic part. The wire is 0.010 to 0.021 in. in diameter and fits into a 0.025-in. slot.I would suggest that you start trials with the Dymax 1180-M family. This series of products cures with UV and visible light, fluoresces for quality purposes, and is available in several viscosities. The adhesives are designed for bonding metal cannulae or wires into plastic parts made of polycarbonate, ABS, or other plastics.
For your first application, I would recommend 1180-M-UR, which has a nominal wicking-grade viscosity of 150 cp and fluoresces bright red.
For applications 2 and 3, Dymax 1180-M-T-UR could be a good candidate, with a nominal viscosity of 6,000 cp. This product also fluoresces red.
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I would like to insert 72D Pebax extruded tubing into the inner diameter of a polycarbonate tube. What is the appropriate gap per side if I want to use Dymax 204 CTH UV-cure adhesive?The optimum gap size for UV bonding applications in general is 0.002 to 0.006 in. In catheter bonding applications in which a Pebax tube is bonded into a polycarbonate Y-connector, we often see bond gaps of around 0.1 mm per side. The Dymax 204-CTH-F family is a good choice for this type of application and substrate combination. Another product to consider is 208-CTH-F.
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We use 1184-M-T, 1184 MB, and 1184 MVT epoxies for various uses. What is a good solvent that can take apart lenses that are glued together using 1184-M-T adhesive?A few chemicals will dissolve or swell 1184-M-T or any other light-curable acrylate, such as dichloromethane, MEK, or acetone. It may take some time for the solvent to migrate all the way in between the laminate, so the time depends on the size of your parts. A more gentle method is to soak the lenses in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or even use warm IPA with the help of an ultrasonic cleaner. I would also suggest this method if your lenses are made of plastic, since plastic can withstand IPA but not other, more aggressive solvents.
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I am interested in a low-viscosity epoxy (<100 cp) that features good adhesion to ceramics and stainless steel. The objective is to seal a small metal sensor inside a ceramic casing at room temperature. There is no contact with patient. What type of epoxy do you recommend?Based on your choice of substrates—ceramic and stainless steel—and the room-temperature requirements, I would recommend looking at a cyanoacrylate (instant adhesive) or a two-part epoxy. Cyanoacrylates are available in very low viscosities. You may want to evaluate the Dymax 222 series. Low-viscosity epoxies are rare. One option could be two-part epoxy 301 from EPO-TEK, which has a viscosity of 100 to 200 cP.
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Can you recommend the most appropriate UV-curable adhesive for bonding ABS connectors to polyurethane tubing in a medical device application? We are trying to bond a polyether aromatic polyurethane tube to a transparent ABS connector.For this type of application, I would suggest trying Dymax 1161-M. This adhesive cures using UV and visible light and exhibits good adhesion to ABS and PUR. It also fluoresces blue for quality purposes. If you are interested in our patented color-change technology, I would recommend trying See-Cure 1201-M-SC. This product is blue and therefore helps the user verify whether enough adhesive has been dispensed. Upon exposure to UV/visible light, it turns clear to confirm that the cure is complete.
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I understand that Dymax offers a masking material that is biocompatible or has had biocompatible testing done on it.Dymax provides a selection of adhesives that have been tested according to ISO 10993 standards and are biocompatible in the cured stage. However, such medical-grade materials are typically not needed for temporary masking applications in which the light-curing resin acts as a manufacturing aid only and will be removed before the end product is finalized.
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We offer a permanent surface treatment that increases the dyne level of plastics. We have heard that each adhesive system works best with a certain dyne level and that you can actually have too high a dyne in some cases. Can you clarify?To achieve better wettability, the dyne level of the substrate must typically be higher than that of the adhesive. Our adhesive chemistries (polyurethane-modified acrylates) have a dyne level of about 30 to 47. We haven’t come across any issues in which the dyne level of the substrate has been too high.
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We need to glue an epoxy-coated magnet to a copper-clad FR4 PC board. The UV-cure glue needs to resist mechanical shock without cracking.One option is Dymax’s 6-625-SV01-RevA, a flexible light-curing adhesive with secondary heat-cure and activator-cure capabilities for shadowed areas. Its high viscosity of 10,000 cps also enables it to be dispensed from the outside and act as an edge-bonding material.



